Lia’s Ices / Lia’s Soups
Q: What does an ices shop do during the winter?
A: Start selling soups, of course.
During the summer a place called Lia’s Ices opened up literally down the street from me. I had a mango ice from them and it was pretty bad; it was bright orange and tasted like nothing but sugar. I shrugged it off and decided not to return. I hardly ever eat ice cream anyway.
Then Grub Street ran a story about how legendary gelato maker Gino Cammarata was supplying some of Lia’s gelato. I had noticed a new menu with some specialty flavors, so I was tempted back for a second visit, where I got this delicious casatta (ricotta cream) gelato. It was remarkably like a ricotta cheese cake both in taste and texture (though certainly not in temperature).
Lia’s followed the Uncle Louie G’s formula of barebones interior and bored teenage servers, so I had assumed that Lia’s would close for the winter the same way Uncle Louie G’s does.
Then things began to change. Despite the fact that the storefront had closed, they got a sign that said you get bread with all “soup meals,” which sat out front for a couple of days. Then the other day the Lia’s Ices sign was replaced by the Lia’s Soups sign. I haven’t eaten there yet — I somehow doubt that they will be bringing in a legendary Italian soup chef, but you never know.
Lia’s Ices / Lia’s Soups — 471 16th St, Brooklyn
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