I enjoy Mike Colameco’s “Food Show” on PBS, and on a recent episode he visited Italian-owned Lievito Pizzeria. During that show he said that the crust at Lievito is the best he’s had since Una Pizza Napoletana, which is far and away the best pizza crust I’ve ever eaten. I knew I had to try Lievito, so I made plans with my friend Jess to check it out. When we arrived we saw that they had a special appetizer of broccoli flan, so we decided to split an order of that before our pizzas. The airy flan was surrounded by wonderful fresh mozzarella and topped with fried polenta sticks.

So, on to the pizza. I got the margherita, of course, but what came out didn’t look like any of the Neapolitan-style pies I’ve had. In fact, it looked like a scaled-down version of a NYC-style pizza, albeit with very, very thin crust. In fact, I normally don’t do “upskirt” photos of pizza, but I took one here because the crust was so thin the sunlight was shining through it like a stained glass window.

I will just say it flat out — the crust was good, but nowhere near as good as UPN’s. I did enjoy the pizza; to me it seemed like a cross between Neapolitan and NYC, which is something new to me. It was well seasoned and the ingredients were well-balanced. It’s not my favorite pizza in the city, but it’s a darn good one.